Sliced apple, citrus fruit and white flower undertones. Medium-bodied, fresh and clean on the palate. Straightforward and fruity with a vivid finish. Drink now.
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Sliced apple, citrus fruit and white flower undertones. Medium-bodied, fresh and clean on the palate. Straightforward and fruity with a vivid finish. Drink now.
Heady aromas of pressed chamomile flower, bread crust and white stone fruit waft out of the glass on the classy Ouedis Brut from Enrico Serafino. Elegantly structured, seductively smooth and savory, the palate features ripe yellow apple, pear, citrus and pastry shell alongside vibrant acidity. A persistent, refined perlage provides even more energy and finesse.
Powerful and polished, the 2019 is another excellent Ghiaie della Furba. With the same blend as the 2016, Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Syrah (35%) and Merlot, this youthful dynamo displays haunting peppery accents that balance the deep, plum-like black fruit nuances. Finely honed firm tannins add to its appeal and impart balancing structure without astringency. Fresh and lively, it has a graceful and persistent finish.
Wow. Incredible purity and transparency with cherries, bark, mushroom, flower and slate/stone on the nose. Full-bodied yet agile and fresh with a fine tannin structure that runs the length of the wine and goes on forever. The polish, elegance and grace is breathtaking. Power with agility. A revelation for the 2016 vintage in Brunello. Drink in 2024 and onwards but wonderful to taste now.
BEST 50 WINES 2022
Psst, here’s a secret. Friuli has some of the most expressive Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. There was a point in this region’s history where “international” varieties were more prominent than their native grapes. And while they did the work to bring those back, Friulian winemakers took varieties like Sauvignon Blanc (Merlot, Cabernet Franc) and coaxed a new kind of balance out of them. Some of the best of this grape comes from here, like this beautiful example from Russiz (Roo-seez). Bright and mineral-driven with minimal fruit, this wine is about texture. The palate is a study in balance with excellent acidity and just the right grip. It is very Friulian, and you may have a hard time sharing.
The 2018 Barolos are absolutely beautiful.
Readers will note the addition of two new wines that have been thrilling since the first day I tasted them. The first is from a choice parcel in Cerequio Vietti acquired from Michele Chiarlo.T
he 2018 Barolo Cerequio is a new wine in this range. Soaring aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Cerequio its effusive personality. Nuanced and deep, with tremendous complexity and tons of character, the Cerequio is dazzling. This is everything a great Barolo from Cerequio should be. In other words: textbook. More over, it's one of the best wines of this very uneven vintage.
The 2019 Cabernet Franc Collio entices with a uniquely spicy bouquet that evokes Indian curries, incense and pipe tobacco before revealing a core of crushed raspberry. This is like pure silk on the palate, yet with a stimulating thrust of acidity that motivates it tart wild berry fruits. Pepper-tinged inner florals and saline minerality are left to mingle through the finale, as the 2019 finishes lightly structured and distinctly savory. This is Patience will be necessary.
Beautiful nose of white peaches, mangoes, jasmine, waxed grapefruit, thyme and hints of salted sourdough. Distinct salty, ashy minerality. It’s medium-bodied, vibrant and textured. Stony and crisp, yet creamy and flavorful throughout. Serious Soave. The second vintage from an old-vine selection from the historic, volcanic Monte Foscarino vineyards. Drink now or hold.
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